Toshimaya

This evening we went to Toshimaya (03-5393-6793), an open-air izakaya-style eatery next to Sanpoji Pond in Shakujii Park. They serve oden and other, typical izakaya food, along with sake, beer and soft drinks. Toshimaya opened when a 100-meter long swimming pool was opened close to Sanpoji Pond in the Taisho period (1912-1926). I have looked for any trace of the swimming pool, but so far I have not been able to find any trace of it. Emperor Showa made a visit to Shakujii Park while he was still crown prince, and allegedly he took a rest at Toshimaya. There is no record of whether he had any refreshments or anything to eat. There is a stone with an inscription on the other side of Sanpoji Pond which commemorates the occasion.

We ordered beer for my wife and a Sprite for myself, and my wife ordered a smelly meat dish that the Japanese call "hormone". I have no idea what kind of meat this is, but I know that I don't like it. Instead I got some potato chips for myself. I've had oden and other dishes here before, and the food here holds high-end izakaya class.

I have been to many izakaya and many open-air restaurants, but none that resembles the atmosphere at Toshimaya. The type of establishment that gets closest is some yamagoya (mountain hut) that I have visited in the Japanese alps, but Toshimaya is more sophisticated. Japanese friends tell me Toshimaya reminds them of the Showa period, and although I don't have any such memories myself I can feel the sense of peace and sentimentalism in the air at Toshimaya. To sit on the bench at Toshimaya with a cold drink in your hand, listen to the crickets and see day turn into evening and get ready to bring closure to the the day is a feeling that lasts, and only slowly fades away as you stroll back home.